Thread: 2003 Chevy 3500 rotor replacement help

Hi I'm new here and need some help.
My 4X4 dually has 32K on it I was told by my chevy dealer that I need to replace the all 4 rotors and pads because the rotors are pitted and spalled.
I'm going to do the job my self but would like to hear from some of you guys who have done this before. I've replace rotors on lighter truck before but never on this one. How do I pull the rotors? Is there and step by step instructions? Any special tool required?
Thanks for the help
spotlite

I'm not sure about the rotors, but they should just pull off after removing the retainer clips on the lug bolts and the calipers. When squeezing the caliper pistons back in, open the bleeder valves and force the old fluid out that way instead of pushing it back into the master cylinder. This can and often does harm the anti-lock brake module, which is costly. Mike

Originally Posted by M.Novak

I'm not sure about the rotors, but they should just pull off after removing the retainer clips on the lug bolts and the calipers. When squeezing the caliper pistons back in, open the bleeder valves and force the old fluid out that way instead of pushing it back into the master cylinder. This can and often does harm the anti-lock brake module, which is costly. Mike

I had never heard about the anti-lock brake module. I was told to open the bleeders because it would get rid of any contaminated oil in the caliper. Live and learn!

As for the rotors, I wonder if the dealer even checked to see if they could be turned as opposed to replacing, or if they were just out to make a quick buck.

Originally Posted by Tom S.

I had never heard about the anti-lock brake module. I was told to open the bleeders because it would get rid of any contaminated oil in the caliper. Live and learn!

As for the rotors, I wonder if the dealer even checked to see if they could be turned as opposed to replacing, or if they were just out to make a quick buck.

The older trucks ( my '94 ) have a module right under the master cylinder, the brake lines go through it and speed sensors detect a skid, or a difference in speed between the wheels. Under hard braking, the module applies and releases valves in the brake lines to prevent the wheels from locking up. The newer trucks apparently have a valve bank under the truck somewhere because the module on my '07 only has wires going to it and to electric sensors on each front wheel and one to the rear end. Either way, I would open the bleeders to prevent damage to the valves that operate this system. It doesn't always happen, but I have heard of damage being done to these systems by pushing fluid through it backwards on more than one occasion and that it costs about $600 for a new one and probably more on a D-MAX truck. Mike

Thanks guys for the help.
The mechanic also told me that the rotors couldn't be cut down because of the surface and dept of the spalling damage.
I spoke to a brake shop and asked about cutting the rotors they said rotor manufactures don't allow and extra material for turning down, so I guess rotors are a one time deal.
What’s the opinion of these slotted and dimpled rotors?

Originally Posted by spotlite

Thanks guys for the help.
The mechanic also told me that the rotors couldn't be cut down because of the surface and dept of the spalling damage.
I spoke to a brake shop and asked about cutting the rotors they said rotor manufactures don't allow and extra material for turning down, so I guess rotors are a one time deal.
What’s the opinion of these slotted and dimpled rotors?

Unless you are going whole-hog and upgrading caliper size, rotor size, and brake pad material, I wouldn't waste the money. After all, it's a truck, not a sports car.

My advice to you is to never visit that dealer or the brake shop again. I cannot believe that your rotors or pads would show very much wear with no more miles than you have driven unless you drive with your foot on the brake all the time and park under water at night. Spalling is a new word concerning rotors to me, never heard the expression before. Just rotated the tires on my 04 GMC 3500 with 53K miles and the rotors were smooth and the pads looked new, this after towing 8k enclosed trailer or 16k fith wheel 95 % of the time. Same results with 2 privious diesels. As far as turning the rotors it is stamped on the rorors minimun thickness acceptibile. Both these guys want your money, bet they did not show you the problems or mike the rotors and tell you what the thickness is. In 3 privious diesel pickup trucks, 2 chevys and a ford I have never had to relplace rotors and only pads after 100k miles. One thing they have engineered well on these trucks are the brakes. Serious abuse of them is another story.

I have seen spalling on rotors. It was caused from using the brakes after the pad material had either worn off or fell off after the bonding failed. It's not unusual, but I've never been told rotor couldn't be turned w/o having them measured first.

Originally Posted by Tom S.

I have seen spalling on rotors. It was caused from using the brakes after the pad material had either worn off or fell off after the bonding failed. It's not unusual, but I've never been told rotor couldn't be turned w/o having them measured first.

I have never heard of a mechanic using the term spalling concerning brake rotors which means chipping of metal such as stricking with harder metal. Even so I doubt all four rotors would see the same damage especially with no more miles than he has on the brakes. I would want to see the damage before I would shell out big bucks for four rotors and four sets of pads, would'nt you?

I spoke with the mechanic in further detail and he stated the problems with the rotors are from lack of use. He commented having the same trouble with his own personal truck.
To better describe my rotor condition and the term (spalling) is when metal cracked parallel to surface under the surface and a pieces for material lifts out leaving a hole.
The front and back surface of the rotors has rings of rust where the pads are not mating with the surface. There long and deep areas where metal has lifted out making an uneven surface and chewing up the pads.
I think these are defective rotors. It’s a shame, I paided out big bucks for this truck NEW and having trouble with the rotors at this low mileage. I figure that its going to cost me $125 a corner
Dave